Dusty hands mop at brows as the packed minibus pulls over again and stops in the direct sun. A smell of body odour permeates every corner of the wretched vehicle. Bags of rice placed in the aisle have torn, and grains spill down towards the driver.
Up the front a chicken squawks. Feet shuffle below the seats, striving for an extra inch of legroom to placate aching knees. Hands reach through the windows for oranges and bananas being sold by a shouting squadron of Malawian boys and women.
The matola – an overcrowded minibus – is an exasperating means of travel. But along with the pick-up truck, it's the main form of transport in Africa.
And after hours of pothole-induced pain, what better payoff than Lake Malawi, a seemingly never-ending expanse of impeccably clear, deep-blue water, with great diving, endemic fish life and out-of-the-way villages perfect for dropping in and dropping out.
For people accustomed to ocean beaches, it's hard to get your head around Lake Malawi. The ninth largest lake in the world, it stretches almost 600km through the country's east.
It is several hundred metres deep, a delightful 24degC all year round, and boasts secluded forests and deserted sandy beaches.
Lake Malawi's west coast is peppered with rural villages, some of which boast beautiful settings and have become havens for those looking to chill out and rest their weary legs.
Popular travellers' haunts include Monkey Bay, Cape Maclear, Senga Bay, Chitimba, Kande Beach and Nkhata Bay. Each has its own attractions; for some it's sandy stretches of inland beach and crystal-clear water, while at others it's the village vibe, tropical lushness and stunning views over the lake.
All the lake destinations are low-key and refreshingly free of package tour groups, and provide a afascinating introduction to village life. At each you'll be greeted by dusty streets lined with fruit and vegetable stalls, teenage boys playing soccer on a dirt pitch, women selling dried fish, a ramshackle minibus stand and the odd souvenir shop.
Ask people in the know and they'll tell you the time to visit is now. Alice Leaper, a 26-year-old English woman who has lived in Malawi for three years, bought a backpacker-style place in Nkhata Bay.
She employs people from the village, runs volunteer activities and has an onsite internet cafe where local children learn to use computers.
She says the lake and Nkhata Bay attract people because of their relaxed atmosphere, authentic village life and waterside setting. But Ms Leaper has seen tourist numbers increase, and fears an invasion of package tourists and charter flights from Europe could change the character of Nkhata Bay and the lake during the next decade.
"If this place ever gets jet skis on the lake, that's the day I leave," she says. "I think in 10 years it's going to be a very different place."
For now, however, visitors can expect a friendly and unspoilt destination that offers a range of activities. The superb freshwater diving is one of Lake Malawi's biggest drawcards and a different experience for those used to seawater.
Open-water courses are available at Cape Maclear and Nkhata Bay and cost $A260 ($NZ338) – among the cheapest in the world. Those on tighter budgets can opt for snorkelling to catch a glimpse of Lake Malawi's massive array of fish species, including the renowned chambo, a deliciously sweet morsel popular on dinner plates throughout the country.
But it's not all about killing time on the water. If you can draw yourself away from the lakeshore, there are some worthwhile diversions. Spotting Africa's famous big game is more difficult in Malawi than other safari destinations, as the country is not known for its concentration of wildlife.
But safari prices are far cheaper than the more famous wildlife parks in Tanzania or South Africa, making these trips a good option for travellers on a shoestring.
One such spot is the Vwaza Marsh, a forested area that virtually guarantees a close-up look at hippos lazing in waterholes or elephants enjoying a late-afternoon drink. Tour operators often combine trips to the Vwaza Marsh with the Nyika Plateau, a grassy highland area with large numbers of antelope, zebras, hyenas and hard-to-spot leopards.
But at more than 2000m, the plateau can get very cold on winter nights. And budget safaris can be just that. Our guide, Davie, promised a four-wheel drive and spotlights for night-time game drives during a three-day trip to Nyika.
On the first morning, however, the four-wheel drive had morphed into a battered Toyota minivan, the same type as those used as crowded matolas.
There were two live chickens on board. The vehicle was obviously completely inappropriate for tackling rough and steep four-wheel drive tracks, but the amiable Davie was not deterred.
"No, it's not a matola," he protested, insisting the van was a proper four-wheel drive.
At one point we had to get out and push the van up a rutted hill. The one spotlight he had brought for game viewing shone for three minutes before conking out, making our promised night drive impossible.
But these are the foibles of travel in Africa, where things rarely go totally to plan and nothing happens in a hurry.
Alongside the thrill of a safari or a lazy day in the sun, visitors will notice Malawi is a very poor and largely rural country where many people still live off subsistence agriculture.
Most Malawians have limited education and a simple diet based on the staple, nsima, a tasteless mound of carbohydrate made from crushed maize or cassava.
Despite the poverty, they remain surely one of the world's most friendly people, hence the glossy-brochure description of Malawi as "The warm heart of Africa".
Everywhere you go, children look and smile before greeting you: "Hello mzungu" (white person).
On buses or in the street, people want to talk to you simply for a chat, not because they want something. The warmth of the Malawians is perhaps the most enduring impression of the country for many travellers.
Malawi is quite a safe destination, perhaps a legacy of its status as one of the few African countries never to have experienced war.
One of the best things about the country for visitors is that it is extremely cheap, and if you have the time you can afford to linger.
Most accommodation around the lakeshore is geared towards the backpacker market, although there are a number of upmarket lodges if you want more comfort, notably around Monkey Bay and on the remote and spectacular Likoma Island.
A double room or chalet at a backpackers' place typically costs about 2300 kwacha ($15 ($NZ19.50), although dorm beds and camping are as little as $A3.
A lot of travellers to this part of Africa rush through Malawi on their way to better-known attractions like Zanzibar and Victoria Falls.
But many end up staying here longer than expected as they fall under the spell of the laid-back locals, the varied activities on offer and the chance to pass some time on the magnificent lake.
IF YOU GO
Flights reach Malawi through Nairobi, Johannesburg and other east African hubs.
Airlines serving Malawi include South African Airways, Ethiopian Airlines and Kenya Airways, with connections to Australia via Johannesburg with Qantas or via Dubai with Emirates.
However, flying into Malawi can be expensive and most travellers enter the country overland. Australians and New Zealanders do not require visas.
Independent travel in Malawi is easy, although tour companies such as Intrepid, Acacia and Nomad can arrange trips.
Antimalarial medication is essential. Swimming in Lake Malawi may put you at risk of bilharzia; tablets are available to prevent this.
Local minibuses (matolas) are easy to use once you get the hang of the system, although they can be slow and uncomfortable. Each town has a matola staging area; vehicles leave when full.
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